Temple Food: The Ancient Secret of the Vegan Diet and the Renaissance of Kimchi

Korean temple cuisine, or Sachal eumsik, preserves a history spanning more than 1,700 years that, intriguingly, now stands at the forefront of the plant-based movement and global sustainability. Safeguarded by the Jogye Order, the largest Buddhist denomination in Korea, this tradition transforms the act of eating into a profound spiritual practice. Yet, from a contemporary perspective, a dilemma arises: "Is kimchi always vegan?" While commercial and many regional traditional versions use fish sauce or shrimp paste, temple cuisine holds the secret of absolute purity, where flavour is born from respect for life and the patience of the earth.

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The “Oshinchae” Taboo: Why Garlic Is Banned

One of the pillars defining Sachal eumsik is the strict exclusion of oshinchae — the five pungent vegetables: green onion, garlic, Chinese chives, wild leek, and Chinese squill.

According to Buddhist precepts, these ingredients are avoided because they directly interfere with meditation. It is believed that, when eaten raw, they can provoke anger, and when cooked, they overstimulate sensory desires. Yet this prohibition also carries a compelling physiological rationale: these plants are rich in sulfur compounds that can irritate the stomach lining and overstimulate the appetite, potentially leading to overeating. This physical restlessness — a bloated stomach, heightened cravings — directly hinders a practitioner's ability to maintain the deep focus required for meditation. The avoidance of oshinchae, then, is both a spiritual and a scientific strategy for bodily regulation.

For conventional Korean cuisine, which revolves around garlic and onion, this restriction presents a major technical challenge — one that monks masterfully overcome by using spices that do not disturb mental clarity.

Contemporary Reflection: In an age of sensory overload and instant gratification, renouncing aggressive flavours invites a "detox" of the palate, proving that subtlety can be a powerful form of resistance and self-awareness. Modern nutritional science now corroborates what monks have practised for centuries: digestive calm and satiety control are prerequisites for cognitive clarity.

The Secret of Umami Without Fish

While traditional kimchi relies on jeotgal (salted fermented seafood) for depth of flavour, temple cuisine proves that the "fifth taste," umami, can be extracted entirely from the plant kingdom. The only animal-derived exception once allowed in certain temple contexts was milk, but today, with growing awareness of animal suffering in the dairy industry and the abundance of plant-based alternatives, this is no longer common.

“Temple food is seasoned not with artificial additives, but with natural ingredients such as mushrooms, seaweed, and perilla seeds, where fermentation replaces the need for chemical enhancers.”

• Hangsik-ganjang (Traditional Korean Soy Sauce): Unlike commercial soy sauces, hangsik-ganjang is made with only three ingredients — soybeans, salt, and water. Containing no wheat, it is naturally gluten-free. What sets it apart is its extraordinary depth: aged in earthen jars (onggi) for years, it develops a complex, multi-layered umami that reflects the terroir and patience of its makers. In Korean temples, the most revered form is ssi-ganjang — aged soy sauce considered the very soul of temple cuisine. Using this authentic Korean term honours both the ingredient's heritage and the scientific sophistication of Korean vegan fermentation.
• Miso Paste: Adds fermented depth and complexity
• Seaweed (Kelp): Used in broths for ocean freshness and natural iodine
• Perilla Seeds: Contribute earthy notes and rich texture

Contemporary Reflection: Replacing animal ingredients with fermented plant bases is not only an ethical choice; it is a lesson in sustainable culinary chemistry that reduces environmental impact and respects marine sentience. The global rediscovery of Korean fermentation traditions such as hangsik-ganjang signals a broader shift toward food cultures built on time, intention, and ecological humility.

Kimchi as Living Medicine and the Power of Probiotics

Temple kimchi is not just a side dish — it is a living pharmacy. Modern science, through studies such as those from Stanford University, validates what monasteries have practised for centuries: fermented foods increase gut microbiome diversity and reduce inflammatory markers.

Fermented kimchi has shown effectiveness in modulating Helicobacter pylori, associated with gastritis and ulcers. The natural effervescence felt when tasting "alive" kimchi signals active lactic acid bacteria. Sophisticated varieties such as Baek kimchi (white kimchi with pine nuts), Bossam kimchi, and Gosu kimchi (with coriander) demonstrate its versatility. In regions like Jeolla, deulkkaejuk (perilla congee) is even used to enhance texture and nutritional benefits.

Contemporary Reflection: By eliminating jeotgal*, temple kimchi becomes a superior option for those seeking to control sodium intake or avoid allergens, combining therapeutic care with ethical gastronomy.*

“Wulryeok”: The Sanctity of Manual Labor

The philosophy of temple food is rooted in the teachings of Master Baizhang Huaihai (720–814), who stated: "A day without work is a day without eating." This concept, known as wulryeok, establishes that communal labour in the fields is as sacred as chanting sutras.

Practitioners cultivate, harvest, and prepare their own food. Peeling a vegetable or tending a garden becomes an extension of Zen meditation. This self-sufficient system ensures each ingredient is treated with reverence, avoiding waste and honouring natural cycles.

Contemporary Reflection: Wulryeok anticipates the farm-to-table movement by centuries. In a globalised and opaque food system, the monk's direct connection to the land reminds us of the value of transparency and physical effort in appreciating what reaches our plate.

From Monastery to Michelin Star

The global recognition of Sachal eumsik has broken beyond temple walls. The restaurant Balwoo Gongyang in Seoul, led by masters such as Venerable Dae An, earned a Michelin star for dishes like mushroom gangjeong. Venerable Jeong Kwan, from Baegyangsa Temple, became a global icon after appearing on Netflix's Chef's Table, receiving the prestigious James Beard Award — the "Oscars" of gastronomy.

In 2026, her influence expanded further with the global release of the Netflix programme "The Philosopher's Kitchen: Jeong Kwan", dedicated to her culinary vision, spirituality, and philosophy of food.

In May 2025, the Korea Heritage Service officially designated Buddhist temple food as National Intangible Cultural Heritage — a recognition that now positions it as a candidate for inscription as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The Korea Herald This milestone cements Sachal eumsik not merely as a diet, but as a historical and spiritual treasure of humanity.

Contemporary Reflection: The success of Jeong Kwan and Balwoo Gongyang proves that haute cuisine does not require excess or cruelty; sophistication lies in the purity of ingredients and the intention of the cook.

Conclusion: The Future in a Bowl

Temple food and vegan kimchi represent a necessary harmony between absolute respect for life, systemic health, and planetary sustainability. They teach that food is a link between humanity and the cosmos, requiring presence and patience.

In a world dominated by accelerated consumption and ultra-processed foods, the invitation remains: what can be learned from the silent patience of fermentation in a Buddhist temple — and how can this clarity be applied to daily choices?

Recipe: Vegan Kimchi (Temple-Inspired, with a Practical Twist)

Base and Crunchy Vegetables:

• 1 large napa cabbage (about 2 kg)

• 1 cup coarse sea salt (for dehydration)

• About 350 g Korean radish (or daikon), cut into thin sticks

• Optional: 1 bunch green onions (3–5 cm pieces)

The Magic Sauce:

• ½ cup gochugaru (Korean chili flakes)

• ½ grated apple or Korean pear

• 1 tsp grated ginger

• ½ cup pumpkin purée

• 2 tbsp soup soy sauce (gukganjang)

• 1 cup kelp broth (boil kelp in 2 cups water for 10 minutes)

• 1 tbsp glutinous rice flour

Preparation:

Salting:
Cut the cabbage, wash well, and rub salt between the leaves. Let rest 1–2 hours, turning occasionally. When the thick stem bends without breaking, rinse thoroughly and squeeze out excess water.

Porridge (“glue”):
Mix rice flour with cold kelp broth and cook on low heat until it thickens. Let cool.

Flavor paste:
Mix cooled porridge with chilli flakes, ginger, pear, pumpkin purée, and soy sauce.

Combine:
In a large bowl, mix cabbage, radish, and optional green onions. Wearing gloves, massage the paste thoroughly into the vegetables.

Fermentation:
Pack into glass jars, pressing down to remove air. Leave space at the top. Ferment at room temperature 1–2 days, then refrigerate once bubbles and sour aroma develop.

How to Seal the Jar for Fermentation

Fermentation is anaerobic, meaning beneficial bacteria thrive without oxygen. Poor sealing allows mold or yeast to form.

Key tips:

• Press vegetables down so they remain submerged

• Leave 3–5 cm headspace

• Release gas from the jar occasionally — press the lid or briefly open it — to prevent pressure from building up. Daily "burping" is not always necessary; simply check when the lid feels taut

With these simple steps, fermentation will proceed safely, producing vibrant, flavorful kimchi.

With or without green onions, the essential part is enjoying the process of making food with your own hands.