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Monte Verità and Beyond: A History of Utopias, Vegetarianism, and Alternative Lifestyles

IMG 1088By Marly Winckler

From November 11 to November 16, 2024, I was in Ascona, Ticino, Switzerland, for the European School of Theosophy meeting, which took place at the Hotel Ascona, which was vegan for the entire event.

The topics I addressed were: "Monte Verità and Beyond: Utopias, Naturism, and Vegetarianism" and "The Theosophical Society and the International Vegetarian Union: An Ancient Partnership." IMG 1089

In my lecture "Monte Verità and Beyond: Utopias, Naturism, and Vegetarianism," I explored the captivating story of Monte Verità, a pioneering community that embodied the principles of spiritualism, naturism, and vegetarianism. Established in 1899 in Ascona, Switzerland, the colony was led by Ida Hofmann and Henri Oedenkoven, who envisioned a transformative way of life rooted in anarchist idealism, alternative lifestyles, and the rejection of industrial society.



Timetable
- 1869-1874 - The Russiananarchist Michail Bakunin settled in Locarno. He livedfrom1873 to 1874 atthe "Baronata" in Minusio. His conceptof Utopia is a society in which no onerulesis over anyoneelse.
- 1885-1928 - Antoinette de Saint-Léger, a Russian Baroness of German descent, is the owner of the Islands of Brissago. The botanical garden on the Island is her earthly paradise. 
- 1889 - Alfredo Pioda, a member of the Swiss Parliament and theosophist from Locarno, together with Franz Hartmann and Countess Constance Wachtmeister, plans the foundation of a theosophical cloister called "Fraternitas" on Monescia, which is what Monte Veritá was called at that time.
- 1900–1920 – Advocates of an alternative to both Capitalism and Communism proposed a new way of life, founding a cooperative community that initially embraced primitive socialism, later evolving toward individualistic vegetarian principles. A third phase of development was marked by the creation of a sun-bathing facility and the establishment of the Monte Verità Sanatorium.
- The founders of Monte Verità included the pianist and feminist leader Ida Hofmann, Henri Oedenkoven, Lotte Hattemer, and the brothers Karl and Arthur (Gusto) Gräser.
- 1920 – The founders of Monte Verità emigrated to Spain and later to Brazil.

    bakunin.jpeg                       Michail Bakunin    Antoinette_de_Saint-Léger.jpeg        Antoinette de Saint-Léger  Alfred_Piada.jpeg            Alfredo Pioda

                         Franz_Hartmann.jpeg                 Franz Hartmann               Countess_Wachtmeister.jpeg         Countess Wachtmeister
 
Henri_Oedenkoven.jpegHenri Oedenkoven   Ida_Hofmann.jpegIda Hofmann   Ida_Lotte_and_Henr.jpegIda, Lotte and Henri

                                         Gusto_Gräser.jpeg           Gusto Gräser     Karl_Gräser.jpeg            Karl Gräser
 
The varios periods of Monte Veritá


- Between the turn of the century and the II World War, Monte Veritá became a cultivation ground of unconventional art and lifestyles.

- The golden age of Monte Verità between 1900 and 1940 can be divided into several periods:

   - THE ANARCHISTS (Erich Mühsam, Gustav Landauer, Raphael Friedeberg, the psychotherapist Otto Gross) were succeeded by 

   - THE VEGETARIAN MOVEMENT (Ida Hofmann, Henri Oedenkoven, the brothers Karl and Gusto Gräser) which was then followed primarily by

   -
THE DADAISTS AND EXPRESSIONISTS of all kinds.

    - 1933 - Eventually, the scientist, spiritualist, theosophist Olga Froebe-Kapteyn initiated the ERANOS CONFERENCES. Olga was a devotee of Alice Bailey. Her mother was friend of Bernard Shaw.

In 1920, Olga and 
her father visited the Monte Verità Sanatorium in Ascona, and a few years later her father bought the Casa Gabriella, an ancient farm house nearby.

In late 1930, Olga Froebe-Kapteyn invited Alice Bailey and her husband to come from the United States and spend the summer lecturing at Ascona. 

Alice Bailey was the head of a schismatic Theosophical organization based in New York and known as "the ArcaneSchool." From 1931 to 1933 she and her husband were the guests of Olga Froebe-Kapteyn. They succeeded in building up a large audience among the Bohemian population of Ascona, despite Alice Bailey's disgust with "the peculiarly decadent and objectionable people who lived on the shore of the lake."
She warned her daughters against the many "groups from Germany and France whose ideas were anything but nice or clean."


The Origins and Influences of Monte Verità

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Monte Verità emerged as a sanctuary for those seeking freedom from societal constraints, inspired by philosophical and spiritual movements. Its founders were particularly influenced by vegetarianism, holistic living, and anarchism, creating a cooperative that prioritized self-reliance, communal living, and a deep connection to nature.

Key figures, such as Hermann Hesse, Mircea Eliade, Bernard Shaw, Tolstoy, Isadora Duncan, James Joyce, Rainer Maria Rilke, Thomas Mann, Paul Klee, and Bertolt Brecht, were drawn to or inspired by the community, cementing Monte Verità's place as a cultural and intellectual hub. These luminaries found in Monte Verità a fertile ground for creativity and personal transformation.

The Dream of "Fraternitas" (1889)

Monte Verità's origins trace back to 1889, when Alfredo Pioda, a Swiss philosopher and theosophist, collaborated with Franz Hartmann and Countess Constance Wachtmeister to develop plans for a lay monastery named  a "Fraternitas." This secular theosophical monastery aimed to foster universal brotherhood through vegetarianism, theosophy, and self-sufficiency. Although the monastery never materialized, the land on Monescia would become the site for a transformative community. This initiative laid the groundwork for the later establishment of Monte Verità.

 

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1889 – Fraternitas - Franz Hartmann (1832-1912)

Franz Hartmann was a German medical doctor, Theosophist, occultist, astrologer, and author. His works include several books on esoteric studies and biographies of Jakob Böhme and Paracelsus. He translated the Bhagavad Gita into German and was the editor of the journal Lotusblüten. 
He was at one time a co-worker of H. P. Blavatskyand H. S. Olcott at Adyar. In 1896 he founded a German Theosophical Society. 
The claim that Franz Hartmann was a co-founder of the Ordo Templi Orientis (O.T.O.) is debated among scholars and not widely confirmed by reliable primary sources.
Hartmann may have collaborated with or influenced ideas that were later incorporated into the O.T.O., but there is no solid documentation placing him formally as a founder of the Order.
In 1917, the National Congress of the Ordo Templi Orientis (O.T.O.) was held in Ascona, in the Swiss Ticino, convened under the impulse of its Grand Master at the time, Theodore Reuss.      

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In parallel, the German vegetarian advocate Karl Max Engelmann, associated with the “Pythagorean League” led by preacher and philosopher Johannes Friedrich Guttzeit, ran a vegetarian boarding house near Monte Brè. Engelmann's meeting with the Gräser brothers in 1900 likely influenced their interest in the land Alfredo Pioda had acquired on Monte Monescia. Henri Oedenkoven and Ida Hofmann followed the proposal of the Gräser brothers to acquire this site as a settlement. 

Monte Verità (1899–1900)

Monte Verità, or the “Mountain of Truth,” located in Ascona, Switzerland, became an emblem of utopian ideals and alternative lifestyles in the early 20th century. It was a melting pot of radical thinkers, artists, and visionaries, aiming to reform societal norms through simplicity, vegetarianism, naturism, and spiritual exploration. Its story unfolds across decades and continents, leaving a lasting cultural and philosophical legacy.

In 1899, Henri Oedenkoven, a wealthy Belgian industrialist, and Ida Hofmann, an Austrian feminist and musician, met during a stay at a natural healing sanatorium in Veldes (now Bled, Slovenia). Sharing discontent with industrial society, they established Monte Verità in Ascona in 1900. Together with Lotte Hattemer and Karl and Gusto Gräser, they created a cooperative promoting vegetarianism, naturism, and communal living.

Residents lived in wooden huts, ate plant-based diets, and adhered to principles of nudism, rejecting tobacco, alcohol, and industrialism. Their lifestyle was inspired by thinkers like Rousseau and Tolstoy, emphasizing self-reliance and harmony with nature.

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A Haven for Visionaries

Monte Verità quickly became a magnet for intellectuals, artists, and reformers:

  • Hermann Hesse: The Nobel laureate underwent treatment for alcoholism here in 1907. His experiences inspired characters and themes in works like Demian and Siddhartha.

  • Rudolf von Laban: Established a dance school (1913–1918), pioneering modern dance and influencing Mary Wigman and Martha Graham.

  • Isadora Duncan: The trailblazing dancer visited in 1903, embodying the community's ethos of freedom and artistic expression.

  • Carl Jung and Olga Froebe-Kapteyn: Froebe-Kapteyn founded the Eranos Conferences on Monte Verità in 1933, attracting spiritual luminaries like Mircea Eliade and Joseph Campbell.


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Conflicts and Transformations

The community evolved through several ideological phases:

  1. Vegetarian Cooperative (1900–1920): Focused on self-sufficiency and simplicity.

  2. Sanatorium (1920s): A shift towards a health-focused retreat, introducing meat to attract new patrons, alienating early adherents.

  3. Artistic Hub (1920s–1930s): Hosted Expressionists like Paul Klee and literary figures like D.H. Lawrence and Erich Maria Remarque.

Internal divisions arose between anarchists, theosophists, and vegetarians. Disputes over philosophy and governance led the founders Oedenkoven and Hofmann to leave in 1920. 

Artistic and Literary Legacy

Monte Verità inspired movements in art and literature:

  • Expressionist Art: Artists like Marianne von Werefkin and Paul Klee found inspiration in its ideals.

  • Literature: Writers like Hermann Hesse and D.H. Lawrence reflected Monte Verità's influence in their works.

  • Modern Dance: Rudolf von Laban's theories on movement originated here, influencing global dance.

Architecture and Symbolism

The community's buildings reflected its ideals:

  • Casa Anatta: Built on theosophical principles, symbolizing the "House of the Soul."

  • Casa Centrale: A central hub with yin-yang motifs, later demolished.

  • Casa Selma and Casa dei Russi: Representing simplicity and internationalism.


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The Decline and Legacy

By the 1920s, Monte Verità faced financial difficulties and ideological fractures. The lands were sold in 1923, but its influence endured:
  • Eranos Conferences: A spiritual and intellectual gathering that continued Monte Verità’s legacy.

  • Lapinha Spa (Brazil): Founded by Hofmann's descendants, it became a model for integrative medicine.

  • Yoga and Astrology in Brazil: Introduced by Leo Costet de Macheville (Sevananda) son of Albert Costet de Macheville (Cedaior), spreading Eastern philosophy across the country.

Monte Verità Today

Now a museum, Monte Verità celebrates its history through exhibitions and preserved architecture. Its ideals resonate in eco-villages, holistic health, and sustainable living movements, offering a timeless blueprint for alternative lifestyles.

Developments and Expansion to Brazil

Monte Verità's impact extended beyond Switzerland. In 1920, Ida Hofmann relocated to Brazil, bringing the ideals of Monte Verità to South America. She settled in Palmital, near Joinville, Santa Catarina, a region already known for its connection to utopian experiments, including the "Phalanstery of the Sai"—a settlement established by French anarchists.  

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In Palmital, Hofmann sought to recreate the spirit of Monte Verità by founding a naturist and vegetarian community named “Monte Sol.” In trying to create a new naturist and vegetarian colony called “Monte Sol”, she had the support of Cedaior, a French vegetarian mystic. Despite challenges, including isolation and local resistance, their effort symbolized the enduring quest for alternative ways of living.

Monte Verità in Brazil: The Monte Sol Experiment

In 1920, Oedenkoven and Hofmann emigrated to Brazil, seeking to recreate Monte Verità. Settling in Palmital, Santa Catarina, and later Catalão, Goiás, they tried to recreate Monte Verità as Monte Sol. Challenges like malaria, isolation, and societal resistance thwarted their efforts. Despite these struggles, their ideals influenced local communities, blending naturism, vegetarianism, and spirituality.

Key Figures in Brazil

  • Emma Costet de Mascheville: A niece of Hofmann and a pioneering astrologer in Brazil, calculating over 10,000 horoscopes.

  • Cedaior (Albert Raymond Costet de Mascheville): A mystic and Martinist who brought European esoteric traditions to Brazil.

  • Sevananda (Leo Costet de Mascheville) Cedaior's son, who introduced Yoga in Brazil.

  • Dario Vellozo: A Neo-Pythagorean philosopher who collaborated with Hofmann to spread vegetarianism and theosophy.


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Lapinha - First vegetarian medical spa in Brazil


The first medical spa in Brazil, Lapinha, was inaugurated in November of 1972 on a 500-hectare farm in Lapa, 73 km from the capital of Paraná, providing care based on Integrative Medicine – a holistic approach to body, mind, and spirit, centered on the relationship between the health professional and the patient. Elected the best spa of the world.
The owner of this spa is a grandson of Friedrich Wilhelm Brepohl and Julie Hofmann Brepohl, sister of Ida Hoffman.
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Conclusion

Monte Verità's story is one of resilience and innovation. From a utopian dream in Switzerland to experiments in Brazil, its founders and followers championed a vision of harmony, creativity, and reform. Though faced with challenges, their legacy endures, reminding us of the transformative power of collective ideals and the quest for truth.

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THE THEOSOPHICAL SOCIETY AND THE INTERNATIONAL VEGETARIAN UNION: AN ANCIENT PARTNERSHIP

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