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From Ancient China to Global Tables: The Remarkable Journey of Tofu
By Alex Fernandes and Shara NG
Tofu, a beloved staple of plant-based diets worldwide, boasts a history as rich and textured as the product itself. From its humble origins in ancient China to its modern-day status as a global culinary icon, tofu's story is a testament to innovation, cultural exchange, and the enduring appeal of soy.
Tofu’s Chinese Origins: A Legacy Rooted in Agriculture and Innovation
The history of tofu, a cornerstone of Chinese culinary tradition, is deeply intertwined with the evolution of soybean cultivation and the rich agricultural heritage of ancient China. Recognized as one of the most significant crops in Chinese history, soybeans have shaped dietary habits, supported economic development, and catalyzed innovations that reverberate across the globe today.
The Birthplace of Soybeans and Agricultural Ingenuity
China is widely regarded as the birthplace of soybeans, domesticated from their wild ancestors as early as 8,000 years ago. Archaeological discoveries, such as ancient soybean remains at the Jiahu site in Henan Province, reveal how early Chinese civilizations began cultivating soybeans alongside staples like millet and rice. These innovations placed soybeans among China's "Four Great Agricultural Innovations," alongside sericulture, tea cultivation, and rice farming.
The domestication and cultivation of soybeans were not merely about sustenance—they were a cornerstone of societal progress. Ancient Chinese farmers practiced crop rotation and intercropping, techniques documented as early as the Han Dynasty, to optimize yields and improve soil fertility. Such methods allowed soybeans to flourish, and their cultivation eventually spread to over 90 countries, tracing back to the practices pioneered in China.
From “Shu” to “Dou”: The Evolution of the Soybean
The linguistic journey of soybeans mirrors their cultural significance. In ancient texts, the character for soybeans, "Shu" (菽), referred broadly to various beans and crops. By the Han Dynasty, this term evolved into "Dou" (豆), a specific reference to soybeans. These linguistic shifts reflect how soybeans became a central crop in Chinese agriculture and cuisine, solidifying their role as a "big bean" or "Dà Dòu" (大豆), underscoring their significance among crops.
The Culinary Integration of Soybeans
Early uses of soybeans were diverse and resourceful. During the Zhou Dynasty (1046–256 BCE), soybeans were boiled or mixed into porridge and rice, as noted in classical texts like the "Rites." The "Book of Songs" mentions soybean harvests in July, illustrating their integration into seasonal diets. Soybeans were also prized for their medicinal qualities, appearing prominently in ancient medical texts for their health benefits, which ranged from boosting digestion to promoting longevity.
As time passed, soybean processing techniques flourished. By the Wei and Jin Dynasties, soybeans were fermented to produce soy sauce, vinegar, and other condiments. These developments highlighted the crop’s versatility and laid the groundwork for its central role in Chinese gastronomy.
Tofu: An Accidental Masterpiece
The invention of tofu, credited to Liu An, a Han Dynasty prince, adds a touch of legend to soybean history. According to lore, Liu An was experimenting with alchemy in his quest for immortality. During these experiments, he mixed ground soybeans with brine, inadvertently creating a fragrant, soft curd that we now know as tofu. Another story tells of Liu An crafting tofu to care for his ailing mother, reflecting the Confucian virtue of filial piety.
Tofu quickly transcended its mythological origins. By the Han Dynasty, tofu was being widely consumed in homes and royal kitchens alike. Soy milk, a byproduct of tofu production, also gained popularity as a nutritious beverage. Texts from the era document its use, marking the beginning of soy milk's integration into daily life.
A Cultural and Nutritional Powerhouse
Tofu's role in Chinese culture extends beyond the kitchen. The ancient Chinese valued soybeans as one of their "Five Grains," alongside rice, wheat, millet, and barley. Proverbs like "vegetables and tofu bring peace" embody tofu’s association with health and simplicity. As a source of plant-based protein, tofu became a cornerstone of traditional diets, offering nourishment in a society deeply connected to agriculture.
By the time tofu evolved into other products like fermented bean curd and soy sauce, it had already become an integral part of Chinese culinary heritage. Its health benefits, versatility, and storied past made it a symbol of sustainability and ingenuity.
Cultural Spread: Tofu’s Journey to Japan and the Legend of Tōfu-kozō
Tofu’s journey beyond China began with Buddhist monks like Jianzhen, who introduced tofu-making techniques to Japan in 753 CE. There, tofu became a dietary staple, celebrated in culinary texts such as the 18th-century "Tofu Hyakuchin," which detailed 100 tofu recipes.
As tofu made its way from China to Japan, it was not only embraced as a staple food but also found its place in folklore. One of the most curious and enduring myths surrounding tofu in Japan is the tale of Tōfu-Kozō (豆腐小僧), a small yokai (supernatural being) from the Edo period.
The Myth of Tofu-Kozō: A Mischievous Spirit of Tofu
Tōfu-Kozō is depicted as a child-like yokai carrying a tray with a piece of tofu, often adorned with a maple leaf. Unlike many other yokai known for their sinister nature, Tōfu-Kozō is typically portrayed as timid, harmless, and even somewhat comical. He appears in various Edo-period kusazōshi (illustrated books) and became a familiar figure in Japanese culture, appearing in kites, card games, and even kabuki plays.
Legends say that Tōfu-Kozō would follow people on rainy nights, silently offering them a piece of tofu. However, in some versions of the story, those who accepted and ate the tofu would later discover it was covered in mold or carried a strange curse. Despite these eerie tales, Tōfu-Kozō was often viewed as a weak and endearing yokai, sometimes even ridiculed by other supernatural beings for being too harmless.
Tofu in Japanese Culture and Cuisine
The rise of Tōfu-Kozō as a popular figure coincided with the increasing popularity of tofu in Japan. Buddhist monks had introduced tofu-making techniques to Japan in the 8th century, and by the Edo period (1603–1868), tofu had become a dietary staple, celebrated in culinary texts like the Tofu Hyakuchin (1782), which compiled 100 tofu recipes. During this time, tofu was highly valued for its nutritional benefits, affordability, and versatility, making it a common ingredient in households, temple cuisine (shōjin ryōri), and even street food.
It is possible that the legend of Tōfu-Kozō emerged from the cultural prominence of tofu sellers in Edo-period Japan. Tofu vendors, often seen wearing wide straw hats (kasa), might have inspired the yokai’s imagery. Some scholars even suggest that Tōfu-Kozō could have been a playful marketing tool created by tofu merchants to promote their product, blending storytelling with commerce.
From Myth to Modernity
Today, Tōfu-Kozō remains a recognizable character in Japanese popular culture. He appears in manga, anime, and even in statues, such as the one at the Mizuki Shigeru Road in Tottori, celebrating the famous manga artist Shigeru Mizuki’s depiction of yokai. His legacy, like tofu itself, endures as a quirky yet meaningful part of Japan’s cultural and culinary history.
The journey of tofu from China to Japan was not just a culinary expansion—it became a cultural phenomenon, intertwining food, folklore, and tradition. Whether as a humble ingredient in Japanese kitchens or as the subject of whimsical ghost stories, tofu continues to be a bridge between history and modernity, sustenance and superstition.
From Japan, tofu spread to Korea, Southeast Asia, and eventually the West. In each region, tofu adapted to local tastes, giving rise to dishes like Korea's braised tofu, Indonesia’s tahu with peanut sauce, and Vietnam’s tofu salad.
A European Introduction: Tofu and the World Expo
The West's encounter with tofu owes much to figures like Li Shizeng, a Chinese biologist and engineer. Li founded Caséo-Sojaïne, Europe’s first soyfoods manufacturing company, in Paris in 1908 or 1909, producing tofu, soy milk, and fermented soy cheese. He introduced Caséo-Sojaïne to Europe at the 1910 Brussels World Expo, where he showcased tofu alongside other soy products.
In 1912, Li co-authored Le Soja, a pioneering book on soybeans, further cementing tofu's reputation as a nutritious and versatile alternative to meat. His efforts not only made tofu accessible but also promoted its potential as a solution to global nutritional needs.
Factory producing soymilk
Global Expansion: Tofu Takes Root Worldwide
Tofu’s global proliferation in the 20th century coincided with rising interest in plant-based diets and vegetarianism. In the United States, tofu gained traction in the 1970s during the health food movement. Across Europe and Oceania, tofu became a symbol of sustainable living, appearing in innovative dishes like tofu burgers and tofu-based desserts.
Africa and South America have also seen tofu's spread, driven by Chinese and Japanese diaspora communities. In these regions, tofu is still relatively niche, but its presence is growing alongside an increasing interest in healthy and sustainable foods.
Culinary and Cultural Significance
Tofu is not just a food; it’s a cultural icon. In China, it features prominently in regional cuisines, from Mapo Tofu of Sichuan to the fermented Mao Tofu of Huizhou. Tofu has even inspired festivals, such as the China Tofu Culture Festival and the Los Angeles Tofu Festival, celebrating its culinary heritage and promoting its versatile uses.
Beyond its cultural impact, tofu serves as a nutritional powerhouse. Rich in protein, low in fat, and devoid of cholesterol, tofu offers an ethical and health-conscious alternative to animal products, aligning with modern dietary trends.
Tofu Today: A Symbol of Sustainability and Health
In the 21st century, tofu represents more than a culinary tradition; it symbolizes sustainability and innovation. Advances in soybean processing have led to an array of tofu-based products, from meat substitutes to protein-enriched snacks. The global tofu market continues to expand, driven by a growing awareness of plant-based diets' environmental and health benefits.
Governments worldwide, including China, are supporting soybean and tofu production as part of broader food security and sustainability strategies. As nations look to reduce reliance on animal protein, tofu is poised to play an even more significant role in feeding the world sustainably.
A Legacy of Nourishment
Tofu's journey from the kitchens of ancient China to global dining tables is a story of resilience, adaptability, and cultural exchange. It has transcended its origins to become a universal food, bridging traditions and addressing contemporary challenges like food security and environmental sustainability. As tofu continues to evolve and inspire, its legacy remains a testament to the humble soybean's power to transform diets and cultures alike.
About the Authors
Alex Fernandes is the IVU Webmaster since 2013 and a Counselor for the IVU since the same year. As the founder of Guia Vegano, one of Brazil’s first vegan websites, and a speaker at international VegFests, Alex has been a driving force in promoting plant-based living globally. He has also served as Counselor for the Brazilian Vegetarian Society.
Shara NG is the IVU Counselor (2019–2026) and will serve as the IVU China Regional Representative (2024–2026). Based in Hong Kong, Shara is the Secretary General of the Asia Pacific Vegan Union and a leading vegan activist. As the founder of the Hong Kong Vegan Association and organizer of the Hong Kong VegFest, she has dedicated her career to advancing plant-based education and awareness throughout Asia. Her research and expertise on tofu’s history were invaluable in crafting this article.
Special Acknowledgment
We extend our heartfelt gratitude to The Ernest Bell Library for their invaluable contribution to this article. The historical photos provided by the library have enriched our storytelling, bringing the fascinating journey of tofu to life. Their dedication to preserving and sharing historical resources is an inspiration, and we are deeply thankful for their support in celebrating the legacy of plant-based living.
Sources:
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pdf
History of Tofu(2.86 MB)
- Shara's Powerpoint presentation from the 47th IVU Vegfest in Berlin47th IVU Vegfest in Berlin
- Tōfu-kozō
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